Issue July 2000. Not for general circulation. If a tripmeter installation is giving trouble, the recommended way to find faults is by progressively removing areas of the installation so that there is an obvious point at which things are either good or bad. The most important split is the one most resisted by customers as it's inconvenient. Take the customer's car out of the equation by fitting the tripmeter into another car. Often it is not necessary to fit the sensor in the replacement car; simply connect up to the new car's power supply and observe all the tripmeter functions which do not need the distance increments. If the opportunity presents itself, a sensor can be connected to the new car tripmeter installation without the sensor being fitted to the vehicle in a permanent way (ie just placed loose inside the car and operated by hand). Only after the above should the following become necessary. Brantz may be able to offer advice about typical car problems, but it is ultimately the car owner's responsibility to have a car with normal trouble-free electrics.

International 1 / International 2 / International 2'S' /Architect 1 / Architect 2 / Laser3/ Surveymaster

1) The meter is installed in a customer's vehicle. The meter digits light up correctly when the meter's ON/OFF switch is switched ON--GOTO4. The meter digits light up incompletely when the meter's ON/OFF switch is switched ON--GOTO13. The meter digits do not light up when the meter's ON/OFF switch is switched ON--GOTO2.

2)Disconnect the Black Power Cable coming from the base of the meter from the vehicle's supply and connect it directly to a spare charged 12 volt battery placed in the vehicle next to the meter. Observe that it is the Black cable which connects to power; Brown to +12 volts, Green/Yellow to -12 volts. Battery chargers are not a suitable power supply as they are not smoothed. There is normally a Blue wire in the Black cable. This Blue wire is not normally connected to anything. If the meter digits light up, find the problem with the vehicle's supply. Often the polarities are reversed or of poor quality. Use Screw-type connections and definitely NOT crimps. If the meter does not light up--GOTO3.

3) Check that the cables (Black and Grey) are not fractured or cut-into by bodywork. Disconnect the sensor from the Grey cable. If the meter lights up--GOTO12. If the meter does not light up--GOTO13.

4) The problem is that on the road the meter digits flash on and off--GOTO2 and 3. The problem is that the digits zero themselves from time to time GOTO3 and 7. The problem is that the digits increment themselves even when the vehicle is standing still--GOTO7. The problem is that the digits do not increment when the vehicle is travelling--GOTO5. The problem is that the meter does read distance but not accurately--too low GOTO5, too high GOTO6.

5) The meter is not seeing all of the pulses from the sensor. This could mean that the sensor is not functioning or that the meter's pulse input is damaged. Connect the negative of a voltmeter to the Green/Yellow wire inside the Grey cable (The sensor Cable). Test the Brown of the Grey cable with the other positive voltmeter lead and see that +5 volts is present. If it is not GOTO13. If it is +5 volts then test the Blue lead in the Grey cable. This lead should go up and down in voltage as the sensor is rotated (or if a wheel type sensor its' end is touched repeatedly by a steel object. When the Blue wire is in the Low state its' voltage should be less than 2 volts. When the Blue wire is in the High state, its' voltage should be over 4 volts. Note that the meter requires that either state has to be present for more than 2 milliseconds to recognise it, (this can be a problem if the customer is using a wheel type sensor to sense on a drive shaft which rotates very quickly. The answer here is to use a larger target). If the voltage does go up and down sufficiently--GOTO6. If the voltage does not go up and down--GOTO12.

6) The meter is receiving external pulses of energy from interference sources--GOTO7 or the sensor is not reliably detecting rotation--GOTO5 and if a wheel type sensor check for correct gaps on all detected targets and also check that socket head screws are not being detected. Check wheel sensor operation with a voltmeter whilst it is connected to the tripmeter. Voltages should be about 4.0v when sensor is near to metal and about 2.0 volts when not near metal. Remember that gaps can alter whilst the vehicle is being driven due to vehicle parts bending and flexing.

7) Test for interference. This is particularly common when home-made HT sparkplug leads have been used, but can come from damaged alternators or fuel pumps/horn/wipers etc. If interference is present it is always too powerful to defend against and should be fixed at source by suppressors or new silicon leads etc. Take a portable radio, select the AM band (important) and tune into a quiet spot between stations. Turn up the volume and start the vehicle. Listen for loud clicks. That's interference. Compare the vehicle with a normal road car as a guide to what is acceptable. Try other vehicle accessories to locate intermittent sources of trouble.

8)&12) The sensor is damaged. Replace and install new unit with best chance of survival against heat and shock etc. Use first class connections.

13) The meter's internal circuit is damaged so the meter and sensor must be returned to the factory for service or replacement. Installation tips: On receipt of a tripmeter test it on the bench with a charged battery (NOT a battery charger as the current is not smoothed) and its' sensor connected. Before installing into a vehicle, do the vehicle interference checks as in 7) and operate other car accessories to see if any of them produce interference type clicks etc.. Always derive 12volt power AND the ground lead DIRECTLY from the two battery TERMINALS. Use screw connections (NEVER use crimp connections. These are almost always loose and account for the vast majority of unreliable customer installations). Support cables at terminal entry points to prevent them from pulling on connectors.

Retrotrip 2 and Retrotrip 3

Carefully read the TROUBLESHOOTING documents to reduce to a minimum the shortcomings of the old technology which is the basis of the retrospective design. Testing a RetroTrip on the workshop bench. DEALER INFORMATION. (NOT) FOR RELEASE TO CUSTOMER. May 2000. Connect the power cable (black sheath) to a 12 volt battery, brown to +12 volts, green/yellow to -12 volts. Note that testing can not be done reliably when connected to a battery charger, as the current is not smoothed. If the Retrotrip has customer-installed connectors, especially crimp types, push & pull these gently, then firmly, to check tightness. Solder them in place wherever possible.

Test (1) Switch on the Retrotrip. Observe the top lights go on. Switch off.

Test (2) (Optional test for dealers with Brantz test equipment. Others go straight to test 3) Put the Retrotrip calibration switches (some may be pen-push types) to 555. Connect the grey cable to a Brantz 'Rolling Road Tester' taking care to connect the right colours. Zero the two readouts. Switch on the Retrotrip. Note the two counters click over together. Change the calibration figures (there is a limit as to how fast the counters can go, so the calibration figure cannot be too low. Switch off the Retrotrip. Remove the 'Rolling Road Tester'.

Test (3) Connect a sensor to the grey cable carefully observing the colour codes (see the sensor information sheet). Select a low calibration figure. Switch on the Retrotrip. Rotate the sensor mechanism (or for a wheel sensor touch a steel object onto the tip of the sensor many times). See the counters click over. SELF TEST FACILITY FOR MORE RECENT MODELS (May 1999 onwards): Connect the Retrotrip to a charged battery supply (sensor is not needed). Put the rotary calibration switches to 000. Turn on the power. Note the readouts take half a step. Within eight seconds of turning the power on, change the calibration switches to 888. After a few seconds the counters will start to self-step themselves in groups of eight for as long as the power remains connected. This enables the simulation of great distances on the bench. If all the above functions are correct then any problem is likely to be with the car and/or the installation. See the trouble-shooting tips on the sensor sheet and MOST IMPORTANTLY - try the meter on another car. Derive power directly from the battery TERMINALS not the chassis or fuse panel. This is the single most important installation recommendation, and it is the one most resisted by customers as it is frequently inconvenient. Low battery voltage at the trip will cause trouble (see recommended power conditioner below).

Popular problems are: Reversed power, loose crimp type connectors, even more loose connectors, battery under voltage, poor quality wiring with still more loose connectors, and earthing derived from chassis instead of battery, radio interference from HT/pumps/horn/wipers/dynamo/ alternator etc. See sensor sheet for a very simple interference test.

N.B. PREVENT VIBRATION!!! - Excessive vibration can cause one counter to disagree with the other. Remember that the counter technology of the Retrotrip is necessarily over fifty years old and today's expectation of perfect performance is a little harder to achieve. Older cars with 6 volt electrics or poorly performing or less reliably performing 12 volts charger systems should use a BRANTZ POWER CONDITIONER which will always produce a correct voltage source for the Retrotrip. Detailed operating and installation information is available on www.brantz.co.uk